A Significant Setback on our way to a Major Milestone

Glassing the Hull 012
Originally uploaded by OzzyC.

We ran out of epoxy. Between applying the base coat to the bare wood, and the bonding coat that bonds the glass cloth to the hull, we went through well over three gallons of epoxy.

This could have some major unintended side effects for us, but Im not sure yet.

The front half of the boat is fine. Im not so sure about the back half. Greg thinks that we can just get more epoxy and continue where we left off. Im concerned that well need to rip up the cloth that didnt get bonded and reapply the cloth. Heres what Im thinking...

Weve got the base layer of epoxy applied to the bare wood. Its also ever-so-slightly bonding the fiberglass cloth to the hull. But Im concerned that its not quite right. Im going to ask Jacques over at the boat forum and get his input. Ill let you know when I get the answer.

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Clarification on the Errors Were Experiencing

I received a message from one of the administrators at bateau, requesting that I clarify something about the errors were experiencing.

There are three possible places where these fitting problems could be occurring. Those places are the plans themselves, the kit, or how we as builders are executing these plans (or any combination thereof). At this point I honestly dont know the root cause of the issue. I will say unequivocally that the administrators at bateau have been incredible about working with us when weve experienced problems, and I will clarify for the record that its highly possible that the issues are due to what were doing and how were doing it, as opposed to it being a problem with the plans or the kit we purchased.

Please do NOT take the contents of this blog as any intent to question the quality of the plans that bateau produces, nor the kits that they manufacture. This blog is designed to look at the building process... nothing more.

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closing in on it

I installed the cross braces at station 3 and 10 today.  Michalak says the one at 3 is probably optional, but I plan on keeping it as it might make a nice place to tie a temporary anchor or help tie it to the roof of the car. 

This is the bottom, zip tied in place.  I was using wire, but gave up after punching a few holes in my hands.  This is much more user friendly. 

The bow twist is a little difficult to get to lie flat.  From here it is nothing some filler (ok, lots of it) and glass wont hide.  This took a lot of patience and some easing the center seam with a hand saw.  I was just glad that I put the halfs together in the correct orientation.  That would have been annoying.  The zip ties work well.  I believe I can sand right over them and leave them inside the putty. 

Another view. 

I got a little too aggresive easing the center seam in the middle of the boat.  Once again, filler and sanding should hide it pretty good.  I am not looking forward to working upside down in here.

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These 1/4" holes allowed me to use a larger size zip tie 8" long.  that really helped a lot with the assembly.  If I were to do it again, I would loosely join the two panels, secure the edges and do the final trimming on the centerline last. 

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The Group sets Sail on the Stanley Norman

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A Stroke of Luck

Heres the answer from bateau about our epoxy problem.

---Begin Original Text---
If you can get it to wet out, there should not be any problems. The larger white areas are going to be easy, its the spots that have been half way wetted out that will be diffucult to make right - you will have to really work the epoxy into the glass to wet out the dry fibers.
---End Original Text---

They asked for some close-up pics of the area where we had run out of epoxy, (here are links to the pictures 1 2 3 4 5 6 7) they talked among themselves, and the concensus was that we could probably do it, but it would take work.
Note: These pics are very large. Theyll take a minute or so with broadband. If youre using dial-up, make lunch while you wait for the downloads.

Hey, I can handle a little extra work. I was concerned that wed have to cut the cloth, toss out the stuff that wasnt epoxied thoroughly, sand down the transition area, and relay the back section; which would have cost us several extra hours of work and about $50 to $100 in extra fiberglass.

Greg came to the conclusion that we really did have enough epoxy for the job, but we used a grout float instead of a squeegee when we applied the epoxy. After looking at the boat, theres little doubt in my mind that hes right. I agreed with his assessment when I saw how much epoxy had run down the side of the boat. Using a squeegee was easier and faster, but it cost us extra in the long run. Greg had to buy more epoxy than originally anticipated, and its going to cost us a little extra work. I wouldnt disrecommend using a grout float for the big jobs; in fact Id still recommend it. But I would also highly suggest that you double your estimate when you consider how much epoxy youll need for the job. The worst that will happen is that you end up with extra epoxy, which can be used on your next job.

As usual, Ill take more pictures (heck, maybe Ill do a video... were about due for one) and update you on the progress.

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Mid winter inspection on Bolger Work skiff

Just a little chipping at the transom where the motor clamps on.  Will touch up with sealer and paint in the spring.

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Trimmed Transom

Trimmed Transom
Originally uploaded by OzzyC.

Greg got the overhang trimmed from the front and rear transom, using a jigsaw. It looks a lot better now.

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Panel assembly

2 pages of 3" fiberglass tape are laid across each joint. They are offset by an inch to taper across the panel joint. Plastic is put between layers to keep it from sticking.   The clamps provide a little pressure to keep it all flat.



There is a heat lamp hanging above this assembly as it is a little cold in the basement.  I have on hand a gallon of West Resin and slow hardener.  It just involves a little patience and keeping things warm for a few hours. 

Net result was a strong sandable joint.  Will be carefull not to sand too deeply as that would defeat the purpose.  Just enough to "pretty it up" and leave a good surface to apply a light layer of fiberglass cloth to. 
I plan on using strippers cloth on the inside to protect the surface, and going with a 6 oz cloth on the exterior.  This worked well on the Work Skiff and left me with an easily maintained surface that is strong and durable.  I plan on trout fishing from this boat, so a surface that cleans well is essential. 

 

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